CUBA – SIERRA MAESTRA TOUR/2004

CULTURAL/AGRICULTURAL/ECO-ADVENTURE

By Alene Liske

                                                                   A LONG GREEN LIZARD

            “In the sea of the Antilles

            Also called Caribbean

            Beaten by waves

            And polished by foam

            Burnished by the sun

            And embossed by the wind

            Eyes filled with tears, but singing,

            Cuba straddles the map:

            A long green lizard,

            Eyes of water, eyes of stone.

                            By Nicolas Guillen

                                This little poem says so much to describe Cuba and its people.

Cuba offers the kind of adventures other destinations promise but seldom deliver.  Cuba is described as the “Pearl of the Antilles” and is the fourth largest island in the world.  Our Liske Travel tours this winter were to beautiful unspoiled, untrodden, Eastern Cuba.  We had to go out with two separate groups because a large group could not be accommodated.  

Our tours commenced in the Nipe Highlands of Eastern Cuba.  A newly renovated lodge, Pinares de Mayari, a high altitude ecotourism resort was our home for two days. It was nestled in the mountains, a peaceful, quiet serene environment with a backdrop of pines cloaking the hills up to an altitude of 3,280 ft.  This site was previously used by the Cuban Military personnel for a holiday resort.  The closest city of Mayari was founded in 1757 and is located about 62 miles southeast of Holguin, Cuba.  While in this area we toured a research station, growing coffee, bananas, cocoa, papaya and a variety of other plants, and we tasted our very first cup of freshly ground Cuban coffee.  A visit to a waterfall overlooking Nipe Bay and a hike through a 576 hectare ecological reserve allowed us to experience the diversity of flora and fauna in the highlands.  Much of Cuba’s corn, beans and coffee are grown in the higher hills and sugar plantations dominate the center of Holguin province.  One of the world’s largest open pit nickel mines is located in this region, a Sheritt Canadian-Cuban joint venture and contributes immensely to the economy.  

As we headed out on our unique adventure, a scenic winding road flanked on one side by an immense sprawling valley of sugar cane and on the other side Cuba’s highest mountain range dominating not only the region but also the country’s history

The inhabitants of Cuba have an even more diverse cultural mix than our Canada.  The Taino Indians (a branch of the Arawak) date back to 2000 B.C. They lived peacefully in villages, growing their sweet potatoes, corn, pumpkins, peppers, avocados and tobacco, all of which are still grown in Cuba today and are their staple foods.  The greatest concentrations of Taino lived in the eastern part of the island and we had the privilege of visiting Museo Chorro de Maita (a Taino Indian burial ground) and a restored village.  When Columbus arrived in 1492 he described Cuba as “the most beautiful land human eyes have ever seen”.  So the Spanish came and as early as 1512, began a planned conquest on behalf of the Spanish crown and established settlements.  Towns were laid out with central squares and a main church and by the end of 1514 seven settlements were established:  BARACOA, SANTIAGO DE CUBA, BAYAMO, (a town completely burned because it’s people would not let it fall into the hands of the Spanish-Jan. 12, 1869),CAMAGUEY, SANCTI SPIRITUS, TRINIDAD and HAVANA.  In 1515, headquarters were first at Baracoa, but re-established to Santiago de Cuba. (It was not until 1607 that Havana was declared the capital of Cuba).  Sugar cane production was introduced and under this Spanish colonialism the Indians were forced to labour. During this time of trial, exploitation and diseases brought in by the Europeans, the Indian people were almost annihilated.  The Spanish turned to Africa for a labour force as early as 1522, and subsequently brought in African slaves to do the work in the fields. Cattle ranching and tobacco (made into cigars) were main industries from 1580 onward.

The French and Haitians developed the cultivation of coffee in the eastern part of Cuba.  We also had the privilege of visiting a French Coffee Plantation built in the 1700’s complete with tools and shackles. 

The French, British and Spanish all have a hand in the pull and tug of war history of Cuba. Between 1838 and 1880 the Spanish continued to develop Cuba’s sugar industry.  A network of narrow-gauge railways were laid down to transport the cane to the sugar mills.  Over half of the sugar production was sold to the United States.  The importation of African slaves was stopped in 1865, but Spain did not officially agree to abolish slaves until 1879. In 1890 tariffs on most trade between the US and Cuba were removed and while outwardly fostering prosperity this agreement made Cuba almost totally dependant on the sale of sugar to the US.  

A man named Jose Marti, born to Spanish immigrant parents in Havana 28 Jan. 1853, was repelled by American industriousness and apparent materialism and Spanish political incompetence and inflexibility (no compensation paid to ex-slaves) and the general deprivation of the populous of Cuba.  He became an effective spokesman as a poet, playwright and essayist.  Marti relentlessly advocated Cuban independence.  In 1894 the US declared an abrupt increase in tariffs, shattering Cuba’s sugar-based economy and destabilizing Spain’s shaky colonial system. US investors snapped up bankrupted Spanish plantations and other segments of the economy for a song. On May 19, 1895 Jose Marti participated in the launch of the “Second War of Independence”.  He was shot and killed but even today he remains Cuba’s National hero and is remembered as a firm advocate of racial equality and independence from both the US and Spain.  Our group had the privilege of visiting a rural school on the 28^th of January, meeting the teachers and to our delight each of the student’s proudly recited poems they had memorized of this Jose Marti’s special work. 

Unrest continued on after Marti’s death with the US and Spain still at war for the control of Cuba.  On April 25^th the US declared war on Spain and by May 28^th the US had blockaded the Spanish fleet at Santiago de Cuba Bay.  (Our group visited the harbour and museum containing actual photos of the battle).  On July 3^rd, the harbour battle took place, ships caught fire and those Spanish sailors that managed to get to shore were captured.  The US lightened its siege and the Spanish surrendered on July 17, 1898. A peace treaty was signed by the Spanish and Americans, ending the “Spanish-American” war and committing the US to respect Cuban self-determination.  In late 1900 a constitution similar to the US was formulated but a rider was added to the bill in 1901 (called the Platt Amendment).  It stated that the US could intervene in Cuba’s internal affairs whenever the US decided intervention was warranted, or remain under US military occupation indefinitely.  With no choice, really, the Cubans accepted the latter and consequently since 1903 the US established a naval base at the mouth of Guantanamo Bay and remains there today.

Cuba became an Independent Republic on 20 May 1902 but their struggle was not over.  By the 1920’s US companies owned two-thirds of Cuba’s farmland and most of its mines.  Cuba was a source of raw materials and a market for finished US products.  Cuba’s sugar industry boomed during the 1920’s with prohibition in force in the US and from 1919 to in the 1930’s tourism based on gambling and prostitution flourished. Then the great depression came with corruption and inefficiencies in the Government leaders and millions were unemployed.  Absolute chaos reigned and on 04 Sep. 1933 Fulgencio Batista, an army sergeant seized power.  Political unrest continued. Bribery and political plundering abounded. Throughout these years of struggle up to 1958 over half of Cuba’s land, industry and essential services were in foreign hands.

“The Cuban Revolution” actually began with a revolutionary circle formed in Havana.  They felt something had to be done so on 26 July 1953 the rebels attacked the army barracks in Santiago de Cuba (our groups had the opportunity to visit the site which now is called the 26^th of July Museum in Santiago.  Fidel Castro, a lawyer by profession, managed to escape but was captured one week later, put on trial and was sentenced to 15 years imprisonment on the Isla de Pinos.  Batista got himself elected fraudulently and in an effort to win popular support he freed all political prisoners in May 1955.  Castro departed for Mexico in July of 1965.  Castro and his companions landed at Playa Las Coloradas, clashed with Batista’s army but were able to escape to the Sierra Maestra Mountains. The revolution continued and the rebel army’s strength grew.  Badly needed supplies trickled in and by the end of 1957 Castro was able to establish a fixed headquarters at “La Plata” high up in the Sierra Maestra Mountains.

…..back to our tour.  On day three we drove through the beautiful countryside to Bayamo (the city that was set fire by its’ own people, rather than to be captured by the Spanish).  After lunch we enjoyed a walking tour of the city center, central plaza and church after which we headed south out of the city, through tobacco plantations, cattle country and winding our way through the mountains finally arrived at Santo Domingo, a quaint little village which is the starting point of exploring the Gran Parque National Sierra Maestra.  The park covers 95,000 acres and spans the provinces of Granma and Santiago de Cuba.  The little villas were comfortable and we were treated royally (if you didn’t mind having no hot water and roosters crowing). The local farmers prepared a whole pig barbecue especially for our groups (amazing).  The highlight of our stay here was a full day of hiking (8 Kms) up the mountain to Castro’s headquarters (his hide-out of many years ago).The whole experience was pretty much overwhelming considering the history, the vast richness of plant and animal life that is exclusive to this area and to be able to say, “we did it.”  This particular challenge is revered as one of the top achievements of hikers worldwide. “Congratulations” to each and every one.  (Canadians truly do relish a challenge).

The resistance continued but on January 16^th Castro was named Prime Minister of the revolutionary government.  Castro wanted to reform Cuba.  He started with reductions in rent and electricity rates and abolished racial discrimination.  In April of 1959 Castro met with Vice President Nixon.  Nixon accused Castro of being communist or being under the influence of communists which is something Castro had always denied.  Regardless, Nixon set in motion a process of anti-Castro subversion that eventually led to the battle at the Bay of Pigs.  Castro had promised agrarian reforms, and all estates over 400 hectares were nationalized including the estate of Fidel’s father.  Big US companies were directly affected.  Cuba’s economic problems mounted as thousands of professionals, managers and technicians who did not share Castro’s view left the country for exile in Miami.  Relations with the US deteriorated due to the land seizures and Cuba turned to Russia to provide a trade balance.  Eisenhower authorized the CIA to train and arm forces to overthrow the Castro government.  History reveals the outcome.  

Day five and six of our tour:  Still overwhelmed by our hiking experience we headed out of the beautiful valley, destination - Santiago de Cuba. The road passes by different landscapes, banana plantations interspersed with tracts of bleached grasslands.

About 20 km. northwest of Santo Domingo is Cuba’s most sacred pilgrimage site, “The Sanctuary of our Lady of Charity” of El Cobre (a saint for all believers in the syncretism of Cuban Catholicism and African religious rites, worship.  African saint Achun (Shalom) the goddess of love (represented by the yellow attire on the statue) is viewed in the balcony of the sanctuary.  In the minds of many worshippers devotion for the two is intertwined.  The basilica stands on a hill overlooking the town and the copper mine.  Copper has been mined since 1530 at El Cobre.  

Pope John Paul II visited Cuba in January 1998.  The Cuban government had shown signs of favouring dialogue with the church and greater religious tolerance in the 1990’s.  Cuban people are predominantly Catholic.  An amazing thing happened soon after Pope John Paul’s visit.  Dollar stores were opened.  Up to this time the government had a strict ration system of food in place for all the population.  The rations provided, were not enough and the people were in a desperate situation.  It appears that the Pope Paul was able to convince the government officials to take action.  The Cuban’s now can go into the dollar stores and purchase things they need.  They still have their ration books but additional needs can be purchased at the special stores. Organic gardens have been established full scale throughout Cuba which is helping to alleviate hunger. 

We continued on into Santiago de Cuba.  The city is surrounded by the Sierra Maetra Mountains and is very hot most of the time.  It is a big city with a mix of African and Caribbean cultures.  Santiago de Cuba is considered the cradle of the revolution (Castro spoke first to the people here.)  It is 969 km from Havana, joined by a railroad.  

We arrived in time for lunch in downtown Santiago de Cuba, enjoying a walking tour of the area. Our guide took us out to the harbour at Morro Castle just at sunset so we could see the firing of the canon.  Then off to our lovely accommodation situated on the east side of the city, Versalles Hotel, (very comfortable) for a relaxing evening. Next morning we took a beautiful drive up the mountain to La Gran Piedra (the big rock), an enormous monolith resting on a crater of an extinct volcano, 4048 ft. above sea level.  The scenery is magnificent with mountains clad with flamboyant trees (bright orange flowers).  Each of our hearty groups climbed to the top for a most magnificent view.  It was well worth the effort. We returned back to Santiago de Cuba for a downtown walking tour and a visit as I mentioned before, to the 26th of July Museum.  The population of Cuba is approximately eleven million.  There are 420,000 inhabitants in Santiago de Cuba with a cultural mix of Haitan, African, Spanish, French and English. The Spanish colonial architecture still remaining and the African Spanish mix are more predominant than anywhere else in Cuba. 

It was time to head up to the northeast coast for the remainder of our vacation.  We stayed at Guardalavaca (in Spanish means “keep the cows hidden”) beach and then on over to Playa Esmeralda (in my opinion is probably the most beautiful beach in the world) where our adventure continued mixed with R & R and the beach.  Some of us took a jeep safari to Cayo Saetia, a fun day on catamarans, windsurfing, golfing, sailing (more to do than we had time for).

The one thing that most impressed us was the friendliness of the Cuban people – they hand you their hearts.  Their ancestors had such a tremendous struggle politically.  “THE CUBAN REALITY” today is still struggle.  They remain in a rationed society.  Their food, water and basic needs are all measured.  The US embargo has been in place now for over three decades but the Cuban people have survived.  Visiting Cuba is a personal matter and a visit does not imply support for, or necessarily prop up the current Cuban government.

Cuba, their people and their land have so much to offer and much of their survival depends on the tourist trade.  The people stand with their arms outstretched to Canadians “Welcome to our Cuba, ENJOY!”

The good time, great camaraderie and memories will remain with us always and “God willing” we will return to beautiful Cuba soon.

Footnote: When we arrived back in Alberta the US border still remains closed to our Canadian beef.  We here in Canada have more in common with the Cubans than we think.